DISPATCHES FROM VITAFOODS EUROPE 2018

Nature & nurture: Food and cosmetics combine in next innovation wave

By Will Chu

- Last updated on GMT

A food and cosmetic convergence, where food ingredients find a place among cosmetic applications, could well form the next wave of innovation as consumers look to nutritional supplements for beauty purposes.

“The ‘in and out’ concept, in which consumers use cosmetics as well as food supplements, is proving popular due to their synergistic action,” ​said Robertet Health and Beauty’s sales and marketing director Thomas Ughetto

“We’re also seeing personal care companies thinking about launching a food supplement line and equally food supplement companies looking into cosmetic applications.

Recent industry activity, particularly with collagen products for good hair, skin and nail health, may be the focus nutricosmetics needs to push on and gain the attention of the beauty, cosmetic and nutraceutical industry.

DuPont and Lonza

Chemical company DuPont, in collaboration with sugar giants Tate & Lyle, recently announced an expansion to their US manufacturing facility to increase annual production of 1,3-propanediol, a monomer made from corn sugar as a petroleum alternative for cosmetic applications.

Meanwhile Lonza have made available its ReGeniStem red rice product, a naturally derived skin care active made from Himalayan red rice.

As well as a purported increase in Collagen1A production in vitro, the food is said aid in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.

Lonza also suggest that ReGeniStem Red Rice may be able to influence skin barrier function, translating into skin that is better able to withstand the effects of a harsh environment.

It could well be that natural raw material firms such as Robertet Health and Beauty are taking a lead in developing novel actives from food sources further blurring the lines between food and cosmetics.

As Ughetto explains, one of the drivers for the nutricosmetic market is the “understanding that nutrition is core to staying in good health and the role it plays for skin and hair beauty”.​ 

Active food ingredients

Its Holimel melon juice concentrate for example is a source of Superoxide Dismutase (SOD), an enzyme said to help prevent oxidative stress and inflammation caused by environmental threats and the natural ageing process.

Holimel is available for use in both ingestible and topical applications for food, food supplements and cosmetic products.

“Is beauty from within a trend or does it have a more consistent market?” ​asks Irene Lamour, who works for marketing and business development at Robertet Health and Beauty.

“We think it is a consistent market. We see several segments of the market that are appearing such as products for anti-ageing and sun protection,

“We are also seeing anti-pollution products as well as a rise in hair and scalp-related products.”

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