Monteloeder studies mechanism of action behind botanical blend skin health benefit

By Olivia Haslam

- Last updated on GMT

© Justin Lambert / GettyImages
© Justin Lambert / GettyImages

Related tags Polyphenols Antioxidant skin health Pollution Beauty from within Oxidative stress Collagen

A new pre-clinical study indicates that Zeropollution, a beauty-from-within blend developed by global botanical ingredient supplier Monteloeder, improves skin complexion by inhibiting pollution-induced damage and inflammation.

The blend is formulated with lemon verbena (Lippia citriodora), ​rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis​), olive, (Olea europaea​) and Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica​) to synergistically strengthen the skin’s protective barrier against free radical damage at a cellular level.

The outcomes of this new study revealed several mechanisms of action underlying the protective effect of Zeropollution, including marked reductions in lipid peroxidation induced by pollutants. This encompasses reactive molecules generated by factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and other environmental stressors that can damage cells and tissues. By only the third day of the study total inhibition of these molecules was observed.

“[Zeropollution], through its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and modulatory aryl hydrocarbon receptor properties, among others, offers a promising solution to reduce the harmful health effects of air pollution on skin health,” the authors from Longjumeau, France, and Valencia and Elche, Spain, wrote in the Journal Current Issues​ in Molecular Biology​.

Pollution and skin health 

Rapid urbanization and increased global energy consumption have led to elevated exposure to ambient air pollution​, particularly particulate matter (PM) and its associated components such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), persistent organic pollutants (POPs) and heavy metals.

Prolonged exposure to pollution can lead to skin aging​, inflammatory conditions such as such as atopic dermatitis and eczema​, uneven pigmentation​ and even skin cancer​.

Air pollutants challenge the skin’s protective ability, with pollutants entering through various routes​, including absorption into subcutaneous tissue, hair follicles and sweat/sebaceous glands.

Pollutants also impact the skin​ by altering the skin barrier and microflora, increasing oxidative stress, activating the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) which mediates the toxic effects of pollutants, increasing inflammatory response and increasing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activation, resulting in collagen degradation.

Pharmacological approaches tend to focus on compounds with antioxidant properties to mitigate the effects of pollution​, and recent studies highlight the beneficial effects of plant phenolic compounds​ to counteract air pollution-induced damage to skin systems.

One clinical trial​ found that supplementation with Zeropollution was linked to increased skin elasticity and firmness, skin barrier function and skin radiance.

The present study used ex vivo​ and in vitro ​models to investigate Zeropollution's primary mechanisms of action.

Botanical blend

The study used both ex vivo​ human skin explants and in vitro​ models using human epidermal cells exposed to pollutants, including heavy metals and diesel particles condensed into urban dust (the main components of city pollution particulates).

Results revealed that Zeropollution, through its polyphenolic components, demonstrated a significant capacity to mitigate lipid peroxidation and reduce inflammation (IL-1α reduction) in human skin explants exposed to the mixture of pollutants.

Verbascoside, a hydrophilic caffeoyl phenylethanoid glycoside present in Lippia citriodora​, exerts anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects​ by inhibiting the activity of inflammatory mediators and the NF-κB pathway, while also enhancing the activity of antioxidant enzymes, reducing cell injury.

Rosmarinus officinalis​ has a rich history in herbal remedies due to its diverse biological activities​ including antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and skin rejuvenation properties, linked to its polyphenol content, notably carnosic acid.

And Sophora japonica​has well-established biological activities​, including antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory properties.

“This study unveils Zeropollution’s antioxidant potential beyond skin health, suggesting cardiopulmonary and endothelial benefits. This broadens its application spectrum beyond nutricosmetics and aligns with the consumer belief that help for a beautiful complexion can emanate from the inside,” concluded Nuria Caturla, chief R&D officer for Monteloeder.

Journal: Current Issues in Molecular Biology
"Protective Potential of a Botanical-Based Supplement Ingredient against the Impact of Environmental Pollution on Cutaneous and Cardiopulmonary Systems: Preclinical Study"
Authors: Peno-Mazzarino, L. et al.

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