Kyowa Hakko launches cosmeceutical skin care ingredient

By Simon Pitman

- Last updated on GMT

Related tags: Acid, Amino acid, Skin

The US division of Japanese biotech company Kyowa Hakko has
launched a new anti-aging cosmeceutical ingredient, Lumistor
L-Hydroxyroline. Said to be a naturally derived amino acid, its
benefits include skin moisture retention and the proliferation of
skin cells.

The animal-free fermentation-based amino acid contained in the ingredient is being heralded as a breakthrough in skin care, and particularly anti-aging treatments, because of its ability to speed up the development of the epidermal keratinocytes.

These skin cells are primary cells isolated from normal adult skin and countless scientific studies have found that inducing the survival of these cells can go a long way to maintaining skin elasticity and firmness.

Meanwhile the ingredient also tackles L-Hydroxyproline levels, which are an important constituents of skin collagen and connective tissue and ultimately help to stabilize the 3-D structure of collagen.

The manufacturers say that Lumistor is a pure, odorless, white crystalline powder that is water soluble and stable across a broad pH range, which makes it ideal for the formulation of a broad range of cosmetic and toiletry products.

But equally the company says that it can be just as effective as an oral application, in the form of supplements, making it a good candidate for the burgeoning market in cosmeutical ingredients developed to tackle signs of aging.

The company said its studies have shown that L-Hydroxproline, which is found in large quantities in the body, can enhance proliferation of new skin cells and in turn help to maintain the skins natural moisture levels.

Kyowa Hakko's USA spokesperson Karen Todd says Lumistor should prove to be an important ingredient for a variety of cosmeutical and nutraceutical formulators due to the fact that it is naturally derived and easy to formulate.

"Animal studies have confirmed L-Hydroxyproline safety and indicated it has a high potential for use as an effective beauty from within nutrient,"​ added Todd.

The use of traditional animal-derived fermentation processes to develop amino acids has traditionally bought about fears over the transmission of animal-borne diseases such as BSE, but Kyowa Hakko says that its fermentation process eliminates this kind of risk because it is animal-free.

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