In recent years, the bidirectional skin-brain axis has emerged as a promising area of interest for dermatology and cosmetic medicine. Based on this, neurocosmetics— which blend neuroscience, dermatology, and psychodermatology—can target this skin-brain axis to enhance both skin health and emotional wellness.
In terms of future implications for the cosmetics industry, this sector could serve up a new generation of evidence-based skin care with a psychophysiological impact.
Cosmetics ingredients suppliers such as Croda International, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant, Givaudan and more have already launched innovations in this area.
While market intelligence firm Mintel touted it as one of its trends for this year and beyond, and early adopter beauty brands such as Sisley Paris’ Neurae and Gen Z brand Eyeam have already launched products in this space.
A newly published study explored the definition of neurocosmetics as a scientific discipline, examining their neurocutaneous and neuroimmune foundations, the role of the microbiota in the skin–brain axis and the contribution of artificial intelligence (AI) and digital technologies in enabling personalized, emotionally responsive skincare.
Understanding the skin–brain axis
The research team pointed out that the skin is a complex and sensory organ that is densely innervated, immunologically active and intricately connected to the central nervous system. It has its own neuroendocrine system, with keratinocytes, melanocytes and immune cells capable of synthesising and responding to neuromediators such as β-endorphins, dopamine, serotonin and substance P.
“This peripheral neurobiology governs cutaneous sensitivity, inflammation and immune responses, while also mediating the skin’s expression of psychological states,” they explained.
The skin has a dynamic, bidirectional dialogue with the brain known as the skin–brain axis (or neurocutaneous system). Through interactions involving cutaneous nerves, neuropeptides, immune mediators and barrier components, the skin influences and responds to emotional stress, neuroinflammation and microbial dysbiosis.
Disruptions to this axis are increasingly linked to skin conditions such as rosacea, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.
What are neurocosmetics?
Neurocosmetics are topical ingredients that act on the skin’s neurosensory system and modulate psychophysiological responses. They can influence mood, mitigate stress-induced skin responses and promote neurocutaneous balance.
Skin contains an array of neurotransmitter receptors and neuromediators—including serotonin, dopamine, corticotropin-releasing hormone, substance P and β-endorphins, produced not only by nerve endings but also by keratinocytes, melanocytes and immune cells, which “suggests a locally regulated neuroendocrine system,” the researchers noted.
Topical application of certain molecules, such as peptides that mimic acetylcholine antagonists (e.g., acetyl hexapeptide-8) or ingredients that stimulate β-endorphin production has been shown to reduce stress-related skin reactivity and muscle tension, yielding both visible improvements and psychological relief.
According to the researchers, key neurocosmetic ingredients include neuropeptides such as acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), palmitoyl peptides, copper tripeptide-1, Sh-pentapeptide, biomimetic endorphin, neurotransmitters/modulators, gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) and niacinamide (Vitamin B3).
They also highlighted plant adaptogens such as ashwagandha extract, rhodiola extract; cannabidiol (CBD), lavender and chamomile oils, sensory modulators such as vanillyl butyl ethe, neuroprotective antioxidants like melatonin and the antioxidant lycopene.
The microbiome and the skin–brain axis
One area of interest is the link between the microbiome and the skin-brain axis.
This is an increasing area of research in the cosmetics industry. For example, British multinational company Unilever released a new peer-reviewed study on this topic in June this year.
Researchers on the study noted that while this area “holds considerable promise,” the current understanding of the microbiota’s involvement in neurocosmetic mechanisms still “remains at an early stage.”
They noted that much of the current data is preclinical or correlative, and further research is required to establish causal links between microbiome modulation and emotional or dermatological outcomes.
Nonetheless, microbial diversity is known to influence skin barrier integrity and inflammation, and dysbiosis of the gut or skin microbiome can activate systemic inflammatory pathways and hypothalamic–pituitary–adrenal axis responses, worsening mood disorders and cutaneous inflammation.
The researchers highlighted emerging evidence that “suggests that commensal-derived postbiotics and short-chain fatty acids produced by skin microbiota may impact neuroinflammation and psychological stress.”
Psychological stress itself can also alter skin microbiota composition, which creates a feedback loop that intensifies both dermatological and emotional symptoms.
Topical postbiotics and microbiome-targeted skin care could therefore represent “a promising adjunct in managing skin sensitivity and stress-related flare-ups,” the researchers wrote.
Creating personalized neurocosmetics with AI
The use of AI and digital diagnostics is already changing the personalization of skincare, therefore the study pointed out that in both clinical and consumer contexts, this enables the development of emotion-responsive skincare regimens.
For example the researchers suggested that “individuals with skin conditions exacerbated by anxiety would benefit from neuroactive topicals during high-stress periods, potentially guided by AI that detects early signs of emotional dysregulation or autonomic imbalance.”
Meanwhile, wearable sensors and mobile applications that integrate emotion tracking, circadian rhythm analysis and skin conductance monitoring could also help to personalize the experience.
“The convergence of neuroscience, dermatology and data science is driving a shift from static skincare routines to dynamic, neuro-responsive strategies designed to stabilize both the skin and the psyche,” the researchers wrote.
The ethical considerations of neurocosmetics
The research also made it clear that there are ethical and regulatory considerations for this area of NPD, as “the modulation of emotional states through topical agents raises important questions about safety, transparency and long-term effects.”
As neurocosmetics will influence both the skin and the central nervous system, from a medical ethics point of view, the psychoneurobiological impact will need to be evaluated by experienced practitioners.
Potential issues the researchers spotlighted included off-target effects, psychologic dependency and other implications of integrating mood-altering compounds into daily skincare routines.
In terms of AI-guided personalization for neurocosmetics, there will also be a need to ensure patient consent, data privacy and algorithmic fairness.
“Establishing interdisciplinary frameworks that bring together dermatologists, neuroscientists, psychologists, ethicists and regulatory bodies will be key to ensuring that neurocosmetic innovations serve skin health and emotional wellbeing in a responsible and equitable manner,” the researchers wrote.
Potential for neurocosmetics?
As the field of neurocosmetics evolves, the study called for future research must to translate its conceptual promise into validated clinical applications.
“This requires the development of standardised protocols to assess the effects of neuroactive topicals on cutaneous neuromediator levels and psychologic outcomes, alongside robust, longitudinal studies that evaluate improvements in skin conditions and patient quality of life,” the researchers wrote.
They highlighted how integrating psychometric tools with dermatologic assessments could “help establish more comprehensive outcome measures, capturing objective skin changes and subjective emotional shifts.”
The study also noted that the emergence of digital diagnostics and wearable biosensors offers the opportunity to create multimodal, real-time tools that “guide personalized interventions based on emotional or stress-related biomarkers.”
These could also incorporate psychophysiological endpoints, such as heart rate variability, salivary cortisol levels or self-reported mood states as a new framework to evaluate the efficacy of neurocosmetic therapies in clinical dermatology and aesthetic practice.
“Ultimately, these efforts could support the integration of neurocosmetics into a broader model of integrative dermatology, where the skin is treated not only as a visible organ but also as a dynamic interface between the body, the brain, and the environment,” the researchers wrote.
Limitations of neurocometics?
The study highlighted that although neurocosmetics show significant promise, most formulations are still in preclinical or early clinical stages, with a lack of standardized outcome measures. Current evidence is largely based on in vitro or animal studies, while human trials often rely on subjective metrics like mood or stress perception, which are prone to placebo effects.
Individual variability in skin biology, microbiome composition and psychological baseline further complicates generalization. Objective biomarkers (e.g., salivary cortisol, heart rate variability) are rarely used, and there is no unified regulatory framework for evaluating psychodermatologic endpoints.
The researchers said that to advance the field, robust, longitudinal studies with multimodal assessments are urgently needed to establish efficacy, safety and clinical relevance within evidence-based dermatology and cosmetic science.
Implication for new product development in skin care?
According to the researchers, the development of neurocosmetics “signals a paradigm shift within dermatology and cosmetic science, one that embraces the complexity of skin as a neurobiological interface.”
“By targeting somatic and emotional pathways, neurocosmetic strategies represent a scientifically grounded response to the increasing demand for integrative, psychophysiologically aware care,” they wrote.
“As this field matures, it has the potential to be recognized not only as an innovation in formulation science but also as a distinct area of translational research, bridging neurocutaneous mechanisms, sensorial pharmacology and digital health to redefine skin health as a dynamic interplay among structure, function and affect.”
Source: Clinics in dermatology. July/August 2025. “Beyond beauty: Neurocosmetics, the skin-brain axis, and the future of emotionally intelligent skincare”. doi: doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2025.05.002. Authors: Diala Haykal, MD et al.
