Data published in the Journal of Medicinal Food indicated that 12 weeks of supplementation with a 500 mg dose of the combination outperformed 1,000 mg per day of the Korean mint (Agastache rugosa) extract.
The complex of A. rugosa, fig (Ficus carica) and goji berry (Lycium barbarum) extracts is commercialized by Cosmax as AGEs Blocker. The Korean mint extract by itself is commercialized under the brand name Agatri.
“While [AGEs Blocker] outperformed [Agatri] in overall effectiveness, the clinically meaningful improvements observed with both formulations suggest that each may serve as a valuable functional ingredient in dietary supplements for skin health,” wrote scientists from Cosmax NS (Korea) and Cosmax China.
A growing category
The global beauty-from-within (ingestible beauty) supplements market is estimated to be worth between US$3 billion to US$7 billion depending on the data source. The category is projected to reach nearly $20 billion by 2035.
The new study focuses on the contribution of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in skin aging, with the Cosmax researchers explaining that AGEs build up in the skin over time and induce cross-linking of collagen fibers, which stiffens the skin and weakens the extracellular matrix—this produces wrinkles.
Exposure to UV radiation will accelerate the accumulation of AGEs, they noted.
In parallel, UV radiation leads to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which produce oxidative stress and inflammation and damage collagen fibers.
Taken together, these mechanisms will accelerate the signs of aging, including wrinkles.
“The importance of this study lies in its direct comparison of a single-extract formulation and a multicomponent formulation with broader mechanistic potential, as demonstrated in preclinical research,” the researchers explained. “Previous animal studies showed that AG improved photoaging-related parameters, whereas AB exerted similar benefits not only in photoaging models but also in glycation-induced aging models, indicating a wider spectrum of biological activity.”
Study details
The Cosmax scientists performed a 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial that included 45 women with wrinkled and dry skin and an average age of 44. The women were randomly assigned to one of three groups: placebo (maltodextrin), Agatri (Agastache rugosa extract at 1,000 mg per day), or AGEs Blocker (A. rugosa, F. carica, and L. barbarum, total dose of 500 mg per day).
The data indicated that both Agatri and AGEs Blocker groups reduced wrinkle size and transepidermal water loss after eight and 12 weeks, compared to placebo. Both interventions also improved skin moisture content, dermal density and elasticity.
The herbal combination product outperformed the single-extract formulation in all these skin parameters.
“Consistent with earlier in vitro findings, the present clinical results demonstrated that [AGEs Blocker] was more effective than [Agatri] in improving multiple skin parameters, including wrinkles, hydration, elasticity and dermal density,” the researchers reported. “Previous studies have also shown that [AGEs Blocker] exerts antiglycation effects, likely due to the combined bioactivities of its botanical components.
“Taken together, these findings suggest that the superior efficacy of [AGEs Blocker] may stem not only from its antioxidant potential but also from the complementary mechanisms of its components, particularly their antiglycation, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier-enhancing properties.”
Source: Journal of Medicinal Food. doi: 10.1177/1096620X261431197. “Comparative Effects of Agastache rugosa Extract and a Complex of Agastache rugosa, Ficus carica, and Lycium barbarum Extracts on Skin Aging: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial”. Authors: Y.W. Cho, et al.
