Scientists from dermatological institutes Laboratory Cosderma and EC Biolab in France and the Souken Laboratory in Japan report that 12 weeks of supplementation with Rousselot’s Peptan collagen decreased the fragmentation of collagen in the deep layer of the dermis by 31%.
Additional ex vivo study revealed that the Peptan collagen may be acting on our skin cell’s (fibroblast’s) ability to produce collagen fibers and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as the moisture-trapping hyaluronic acid.
“To our knowledge, this is the first clinical study showing an effect of collagen peptides on dermal collagen fragmentation,” wrote the researchers, led by Dr Jerome Asserin of Laboratory Cosderma.
“The results delivered by Peptan collagen peptides within the skin tissue were real: there is a particularly high stimulation of GAGs such as hyaluronic acid,” said Dr Elian Lati of the BIO-EC Laboratory and co-author of the paper published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. “The ex vivo study provided important insights into the mechanisms of collagen peptides on tissue level which provide the basis for its skin anti-aging effects.”
“The actual results for women who took the collagen peptide supplement show a real effect on restructuring the collagen network by decreasing fragmentation,” added Dr Jerome Asserin of Laboratory Cosderma.
Dr Asserin and his co-workers recruited 33 women aged between 40 and 59 to participate in the first of the clinical trials, based in Japan. The participants were randomly assigned to one of three group: Placebo, or Peptan collagen of fish or porcine origin (10 grams per day) for eight weeks. Results of this study indicated the fish collagen increased skin moisture levels by 12% after eight weeks, while the porcine collagen increased skin moisture by 16% after four weeks and by 28% after eight weeks.
“The water content of the skin depends on the cutaneous evaporation rate and the hydration level of the epidermis, contributing to maintain skin health and a youthful appearance,” wrote the researchers. “In the above presented clinical trial, we observed a significant increase in skin moisture level after porcine and fish collagen peptide (Peptan) supplementation when compared to placebo. However, the TEWL, a measure of stratum corneum integrity, was not affected.”
The second study involved 106 women (average age of 53) assigned to either placebo or the Peptan fish collagen (10 grams per day) for 12 weeks. Results of this study indicated that Peptan significantly increased the density of collagen in the dermis by 9% after 12 weeks of intake. In addition, fragmentation of collagen in the deep layer of the dermis was decreased by 31% after 12 weeks of intake.
“We provide clinical evidence for the efficacy of specific collagen peptides (Peptan) to improve skin moisture and, for the first time, to prevent and reduce the fragmentation of the dermal collagen network, thus counteracting one of the hallmarks of skin aging,” they wrote.
“The improvement of those physiological skin parameters is likely linked to an increase of collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis in the respective skin layers. These data demonstrate that the oral supplementation with specific collagen peptides can improve skin structure and health from within.”
The scientists were affiliated with COSderma Laboratory (France), BIO-EC Laboratory (France), Unitec Foods (Japan), and Rousselot BVBA (Belgium).
Source: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Published online ahead of print, doi: 10.1111/jocd.12174
“The effect of oral collagen peptide supplementation on skin moisture and the dermal collagen network: evidence from an ex vivo model and randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trials”
Authors: J. Asserin, E. Lati, T. Shioya, J. Prawitt