As the beauty-from-within market expands, both young and older consumers are demanding holistic solutions which support general wellbeing as well as providing beauty benefits, bringing hydration into the spotlight as essential for general wellness and skin health.
Sirio’s Maria Pavlidou, director of marketing and communications, discussed this trend at Aker Biomarine’s inaugural ‘Glow Inside Out’ event in London last week (Sept. 16), noting only 30% of consumers feel adequately hydrated (FMCG Gurus). This has triggered a surge in demand for science-backed hydration supplements which offer multi-functional benefits, she said.
“We’re seeing a clear trend of beauty brands increasingly blurring the lines between supplements and personal care, with launches designed to complement women’s beauty routines,” she told NutraIngredients.
“Many of our beauty brand partners specifically ask us to consider aesthetics, not only in the supplement itself but also in the packaging. As these factors are key to creating a premium, consumer-friendly experience,” she added. “This includes details like smaller, easy-to-swallow capsules that feel elegant to take.”
Noticing that current hydration focused beauty-from-within supplements on the market tend to be collagen+ formulations, the firm’s R&D team looked to develop beyond this, aware of the demand for multi-benefit solutions.
Working alongside Aker Biomarine, they developed a range of three soft gel skin hydration supplements for women named ‘HydraPearls’, offering ‘beautiful’ pearlescent softgel capsules to aesthetically compete with beauty brand products on shelf.
The ‘HydraPearls Vital’ concept contains Aker’s SuperbaBoost krill oil, alongside type one collagen, hyaluronic acid (HA), niacin, and riboflavin, targeting women going through peri- and menopause.
Pavlidou explained HA supports skin hydration, while the krill oil omega-3s support mood, hormones and reduce inflammation, and the Nicotinamide can help ease hot flushes.
The ingredients created several technical challenges, such as separation between the lipophilic krill oil and the water-soluble components - collagen, hyaluronic acid.
Further challenges included hyaluronic acid’s (HA) degradation under pH, temperature, water and oxygen exposure, the tendency for collagen peptides to clump in humid conditions, easy oxidization of krill oil omega-3s, plus the fact phospholipids weaken soft gel capsule elasticity.
They overcame the issues by using additives to ensure homogeneous dispersion of the ingredients, inert gas shielding to prevent oxidation, opaque capsule shells to prevent light-induce degradation, and a high-glycerin formula to enhance shell flexibility.
“This was the first time these had ever been formulated into a capsule so we are very proud to bring this to market,” Pavlidou said.
Also developed for women going through peri- and menopause, the ‘HydraPearls Radiance’ concept combines freeze dried aloe vera gel, evening primrose oil, vitamin A, and vitamin E to support skin hydration and overall wellness.
And for the younger female audience, the ‘HydraPearls Glow’ concept contains eggshell membrane derived collagen Ovoderm, vitamin C, safflower oil, and natural colorant, for hydration and skin health.
Pavlidou said Ovoderm is typically found within hard capsules and powder and this was the first time it has been used within a softgel.
“The HydraPearls Glow concept focuses on hydration, antioxidant support and maintaining overall skin wellness rather than addressing more advanced skin concerns,” she told NI. “The inclusion of Vitamin C supports normal collagen formation, which is key for keeping skin looking fresh and resilient, while safflower oil helps combat dryness and reduce inflammation, which may help reduce puffiness.
“Compared to concepts aimed at mature skin, this is a lighter formulation with fewer ingredients, for skin types that generally require less intensive support,” she added.
