Analysis using GC-MS/FID (Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry/Flame Ionization Detection) with a non-polar analytical column revealed that 11 samples (55%) showed profiles inconsistent with authentic Lavandula angustifolia and appeared to contain lower-grade lavender materials, blended lavender-type oils, or non-authentic lavender species.
Twelve samples (60%) showed evidence of dilution with carrier oils, mineral oil-type substances, fatty esters, or other extender materials, stated NOW in a press release.
Moreover, 13 samples (65%) contained synthetic fragrance-related compounds or compositional patterns not expected in genuine lavender essential oil.
“Notably, eight of the tested brands are from China, and four are from India. Of these foreign brands, ALL failed testing due to the criteria above. Additionally, imported brands were four of the top five lowest-priced products,” stated NOW. “The three products that passed (including NOW) were among the four highest priced on Amazon.
“This analysis revealed that buyers should beware: the lowest-cost Lavender Oil products tested were the lowest quality.”
Widespread adulteration
Lavender essential oil (Lavandula angustifolia) is one of the most recognized and widely used essential oils in aromatherapy and personal care products.
The largest producer of lavender oil in the world is Bulgaria, with 52% of global production. This is double the production from France. China accounts for approximately 12% of worldwide production, according to a bulletin from the Botanical Adulterants Prevention Program (BAPP), an international nonprofit consortium led by the American Botanical Council (ABC), the American Herbal Pharmacopoeia (AHP), and the University of Mississippi’s National Center for Natural Products Research (NCNPR).
The two main components of genuine lavender oil are linalool and linalyl acetate, along with a characteristic terpene distribution unique to authentic lavender. Because lavender oil is both popular and relatively expensive, it is vulnerable to dilution, substitution, and fragrance formulation.
“English lavender essential oil adulteration is considered to be widespread, even if information on the extent is somewhat scarce,” stated the BAPP Bulletin. “According to the available scientific reports, lavender oil adulteration ranges between 25% to 90%, depending on the analytical method and criteria for adulteration used.
“Scientific reports, pharmacopeial information from ISO, and the European Pharmacopoeia provide detailed information on lavender essential oil composition and specifications… Despite the body of knowledge, many manufacturing companies opt to purchase lower-cost adulterated oils from suppliers with insufficient quality control measures and low traceability.”
Testing
The new testing marks NOW’s 23rd round of product analysis since it initiated its testing program in 2017 to evaluate lesser-known brands sold online. The testing sought to determine whether products marketed as “Lavandula angustifolia” or “pure lavender essential oil” were consistent with the composition expected of authentic lavender essential oil, according to ISO standards for French/Bulgarian lavender oils.
The testing focused on confirmation of authentic lavender species, detection of carrier oils, mineral oils, or extender materials, and identification of synthetic or fragrance-related compounds not expected in pure lavender essential oil.
The data indicated that although many of the tested products were labeled and marketed as “pure lavender essential oil”, the majority did not fully match the chemical profile expected of authentic Lavandula angustifolia lavender oil.
“NOW will continue evaluating products sold through major online marketplaces and sharing analytical findings to support transparency, authenticity, and higher quality standards across the industry. This report will be shared with the FDA and Amazon,” stated NOW.
Amazon was contacted by NutraIngredients for comment, but no response was received prior to publication.
The full test results can be found HERE.
Ongoing efforts
This is NOW’s 23rd round of product analysis since it initiated its testing program in 2017 to evaluate lesser-known brands sold online. All rounds to date have raised concerns tied to issues such as potency, labeling, contamination, adulteration and heavy metals across product categories.
NOW’s ongoing efforts to publicize quality concerns about supplements purchased on Amazon were recognized by NutraIngredients with the 2021 NutraIngredients-USA Award for Industry Initiative of the Year.